Browse and Read Manual Colchester Mascot 1600 Lathe Pdf Manual Colchester. Lathe Mascot size lathe in perfect condition; Colchester Bantam 2000 Lathe. Download and Read Colchester Bantam 2000 Lathe Manual Colchester Bantam 2000 Lathe Manual Spend your few moment to read a book even only few pages. Jul 2, 2018 - Manuals and some video tutorials are available on this page. If you require help with. Colchester Bantam 2000 Lathe (removed from shop).

• Colchester Bantam 2000 Lathe Manual

Colchester Triumph 2000 Lathe Page 1 email: Colchester Triumph 2000 Lathe - Page 1 of Clausing 15' Models 8030, 8031, 8032, 8033 A Handbook & Parts Manual for all versions of the Triumph 2000 Built during February 1968, at the Company's long-established Essex works, the first production Triumph 2000 was the second Model in a new range of lathes introduced by Colchester during the latter half of the decade. Like the first in the Series, the Mascot 1600 (produced from November, 1965), it was a revolution in styling and specification and (though the new models may have lacked mechanical novelty) were a strong reminder that even machine tools are subject to the vagaries and whims of fashion for, with their distinctive 'square' styling, ergonomically-designed controls and bright finishes, the new lathes made their competitors look distinctly dowdy and old-fashioned. It would be unfair, however, to dismiss the Triumph 2000 as a mere styling exercise for this important and very popular lathe was a tough, well-made machine with a combination of capacity, speed and ease of use that made it ideal as a both general-purpose lathe for industry and, because of its modest price, also affordable by smaller machine shops who needed an all-round workhorse able to handle as great a variety of tasks as possible. So successful was the model that, for some time after its introduction, demand outstripped supply by a considerable margin and used examples were so difficult to find that good ones fetched almost list price.

Colchester Bantam 2000 Lathe Manual

11 inches (280 mm) wide the bed was induction hardened and ground-finished as standard; it was of the usual Colchester V-and-flat type, with separate pairs of ways for the carriage and tailstock, and available in two lengths that gave either 30 or 50 inches (760 mm and 1270 mm) between centres. Both beds could be had either with or without a detachable gap piece that allowed material up to 23-inches (580 mm) in diameter and 6.125 inches (155 mm) thick to be swung on the (optional-extra) 14 and 21-inch (355 mm or 535 mm) diameter faceplates. Power was provided by a 5.6 kW (7.5 hp) base-mounted motor that drove through 4 V belts to instant-acting forward-and-reverse 'wet' multi-plate clutches of Matrix manufacture mounted inside the headstock on the rearmost layshaft. However, due to a shortage of Matrix components, from Serial No. 28412 German Ortlinghaus clutches were used as well.

The headstock casting could be adjusted laterally on the bed, although before altering the factory setting the owner was strongly cautioned to consult the (very comprehensive) owner's manual. The lubrication arrangements for the headstock reflected the harder work that the lathe was intended to perform and used an impeller-type pump mounted on a oil tank fitted inside the headstock-end plinth and driven from a fifth groove on the main drive pulley; from the tank the oil was taken to a 'distributor block' fastened beneath the headstock's top cover and from there by pipes to the required locations. A flow-indicator sight-glass was fitted to the front face of the headstock to allow the operator to check that oil was flowing correctly. With a hardened 6-in D1 Camlock nose the 2.1875' (55.5 mm) bore spindle was especially rigid and had been designed in conjunction with the British Machine Tool Industry Research Association.

All the gears in the headstock, and not just those responsible for the main drive as on less heavily stressed Colchester models, were hardened and finish ground on Reishauer machines. 16 speeds were available, from 25 to 2000 rpm and, because of the high top speed and the capacity of the lathe, the makers warned against the use of other than the dynamically balanced, ductile-iron chucks with hardened scrolls that had been specially commissioned from Burnerd; if a new chuck is required on these lathes it would be unwise to fit anything other than one recommended by a reputable Western manufacturer. You are welcome to for advice as to what is suitable.

Concentrically mounted paddle levers on the front face of the headstock selected the spindle speeds and worked through an ingenious and compact mechanism, with (for a machine tool) an almost foolproof system of colour coding to indicate the settings. Once the motor had been switched on by the headstock-mounted push-button starter the spindle control was by two levers: one pivoted from the right-hand apron wall and the other up against the inner face of the gearbox; both worked through a 'third shaft' (parallel and below the feed shaft and leadscrew) that was connected by links to a cross-shaft that passed through the bed just in front of the headstock.

The apron lever gave a stop, forward and reverse action the other just a reverse and stop; in conjunction with the headstock-mounted clutches and electrical switches (and a foot-operated brake) this easily-operated and safe system allowed the operator to control the spindle from either the vicinity of the toolpost or the headstock - and all while the motor was left running so that the minimum of time was wasted waiting for speed to build up (it took 4 to 5 seconds to reach 2000 rpm with a 12-inch chuck fitted) - or slow down. At Serial No. 28412 the mechanical foot-brake was replaced by a Simplatroll spring-engaged, electrically-released unit; moving the clutch control lever into forward or reverse energised the brake solenoid, causing it to release; at the same time the power indicator lamp of the earlier models was replaced by a push button that also energised the solenoid, so allowing the chuck to be rotated by hand (though on some models this facility may be blocked if a high speed is selected). At serial No. 22096, the knurled edges of the micrometer dials appear to have been changed to a pattern similar in appearance to 'truncated chainwheels' (probably for better grip) and, simultaneously, a micrometer dial was fitted as standard to the carriage handwheel - a useful item that had always been on the options' list. At around the same time - or possibly not until Serial No. 28501 - dual metric/imperial dials became available for the top and cross slides and at Serial No.

36035 the auxiliary brake on the end of the headstock shaft was dispensed with. Continued below: Continued: Because the lathe was capable of rotating heavy jobs at high speed a powerful and easily-operated spindle brake was essential; the Mk. 2 Triumphs had also been fitted with a brake but its control had been through a lever that was also used as an electrical start/stop and it suffered from a lack of serious leverage. On the '2000' the problem was fully addressed by mounting a more powerful brake that was activated by a full-length foot-operated bar hinged between the stand's plinths and with a mechanism that interconnected with the control for the spindle-clutch. The lathe was also fitted with a headstock-mounted emergency stop button (that operated through the obligatory 'no-volt' release to prevent the motor restarting after a power cut), and a motor-run warning light to alert the hard-of-hearing, or those working in a noisy environment, that things were 'active' and the controls should not to be played with casually. Totally enclosed the dual Metric/English was lubricated from an oil bath and fitted with hardened and ground gears running on ball-race supported shafts.

Three conventional levers, and an 8-position joystick that moved into radial slots around a circle, swapped the ratios. The box was able to generate a wide range of pitches without dismounting or changing any of the changewheels; the range of threads comprised: 39 Metric from 0.2 mm to 14.0 mm; 18 Module from 0.3 to 3.5m; 45 English from 2 to 72 t.p.i. And 21 Diametral from 8 to 44 D.P.

The range of sliding feeds varied from 0.001' to 0.040' (0.03 mm to 1.0 mm) and surfacing feeds at half those rates (and thus) from 0.0005' to 0.020' (0.015 mm to 0.5 mm) - all per revolution of the spindle. Doubled walled the had shafts supported on ball bearing at each end and all gears hardened and ground; the base was closed off to form an oil bath to splash lubricate the internals and at the top of the front face, just to the right of cross-feed screw, was a push rod for hand-operated a plunger pump to feed the same lubricant to the bed, cross-slide ways and cross-feed nut. Selected by a push/pull button the power feeds were positively engaged by a lever that allowed the feed to be stopped instantly regardless of how deep and heavy the cut was. A second push/pull button provided a means of reversing either feed and a knurled-edge dial, on the apron's right-hand face, allowed the operator to adjust the trip force that disengaged the feed - so providing a handy means of obtaining maximum accuracy when turning up to a shoulder length. A thread-dial indicator was fitted as standard. Able to be pulled out to disengage it, the rotation of carriage traverse handwheel could be safely stopped when power feeds were being used - a fitting that appears to have been incorporated from the start of production.

Machined all over the was fitted with taper gib strips that allowed a very precise fit to be obtained - while also giving far superior support in comparison with the cheaper 'loose-strip' type. The 9.25-inch travel cross slide was especially wide and fitted with a cross-feed screw that could be adjusted to reduce backlash; although the slide was devoid of T slots and tapped holes - and so appeared, at a glance, to be incapable of mounting any accessories - the edges of the slide were machined to accept 'slide-on' T-slotted and plain blocks that could hold a variety of items including hydraulic profiling units and parting-off and other special tools. With a hardened No. 4 Morse taper barrel engraved with metric and inch graduations the set-over tailstock also had a large diameter zeroing micrometer dial on the feed handwheel.

Constructed around two heavy cast-iron plinths, with a deep slide-out chip tray between them, the stand, surprisingly, offered no storage at all, in either plinths or centre section, even though this would not have been difficult to engineer - and would have made life both easier and more productive for the operator. All but the most perverse would have been happy with the combination of feed and leadscrew combinations offered by the maker for the lathe was available with an English-pitch leadscrew with feed screw micrometer dial graduations in inches or millimetres, or with a Metric leadscrew and millimetre dial graduations. The 30-inch Capacity Triumph 2000 weighed approximately 1170 kg and the long-bed 50-inch version around 1280 kg. Ergonomically-designed and easy-to-use controls with decent-sized levers and grouped electrical controls and a motor-running warning light. The example shown is an early model with the screwcutting gearbox levers being round rather than the later paddle-shaped ones. The 2.1875' (55.5 mm) bore spindle, with a hardened 6-in D1 Cam Lock nose, was especially rigid and had been designed in conjunction with the British Machine Tool Industry Research Association.

All the gears in the headstock, and not just those responsible for the main drive as on less heavily stressed Colchester models, were hardened and finish ground on Reishauer machines. A 'distributor tray' was bolted across the top of the casting to catch flung-up lubricant and feed it through pipes to critical points; the same oil was fed, unfiltered, to the Gamet Super Precision taper roller bearings.

A Handbook & Parts Manual for all versions of the Triumph 2000 Colchester Triumph 2000 Lathe - Page 1 of Clausing 15' Models 8030, 8031, 8032, 8033 email.

Hi Guys I have a Clausing/Colcheter 12' (Colchester Colt) very similar in appearance to the Bantam 13' swing. I PMed Cheeseking for my way wipers, but I have another question that I'm hoping Bantam owners that have had theirs apart can help with. I can't seem to figure out any way to 0 out my crosfeed or compound dials for reference. The crosfeed has a small thumbwheel that the manual says should be loosened and retightened after adjustment but it seems not to do anything. I have removed the handwheels and can see that they both have a keyway that slides onto a key on the leadscrew, and also have a key that slides into a keyway on the dial cartridge, so everything moves together. But no way to slide the cartridge independently to zero the dial. I have corresponded with Tony Griffiths at lathes.co.uk and his response was that this type of dial normally has a friction setting with a spring and ball hidden between the inside and outside sections - but instead it might have some sort of lock that has been engaged.

It should, certainly, be able to zero. What am I missing? Machine porn. I just got done cleaning her up after a job and couldn't resist snapping a few before messing it up again. Btw I never had a positive thing to say about chuck guards but have to say the one I added has worked out really well last couple yrs. Keeps most of the chips semi contained and more importantly oil spray off the chuck when using lube. Flips up easy and locks quick at varoius heights to avoid TP lever.

Work light was another good add. Im friggin blind so never enough light. My son and I just purchased a Clausing Colchester 11 (Colchester bantam 1600 mk2). We have just set it up in the garage using a rotary converter to power the 3 phase motor. Everything appears to be working so we are trying to determine the best setup. First question is how best to mount to the floor. Our initial plan is to raise the unit 8 inches for better access using 2 Short I beams w cross support.

We have not decided how best to incorporate leveling features and if we need it hard mounted to the floor. Any recommendations? Other items while we work the installation. 1 best way to clean off all the old grime. 2 recommendation for lighting.

3 best way to determine if ways are in good shape and not worn. 4 best source for gear train parts. We have excess slop on thread gear bushing. Any help appreciated.

As far as cleaning it up, it depends to what degree you plan to take it. I would at minimum change the headstock oil and clean up the ways and the gear train for the feed. Fine Scotch brite pads work well but go easy. It is abrasive after all so you don't want to go overboard. Just enough to remove any light rust or tarnishing. I used LPS with the pads to aid cutting action and reduce dusting.

Thoroughly clean the abrasive grit afterwards. For me 'Cleaning it up' ended up taking a good 4-6 months of painstaking work. Every part with the exception of the headstock internals worked over with chemicals ranging from wd40, LPS, simple green, wire brushes, scotch brite, soap and hot water, dental picks, stones, rags, towels you name it. In the end I feel it was worth the effort. You may or may not want to take it to that extreme. Btw I see you got a steady rest too!

Nice bonus since many seem to be missing. The clean up process is long. I have used window washing fluid and WD40 mostly as it does not discolour the paint of the machine. In the clean up, make sure you clean under the saddle, the leadscrews and bronze nuts, drain and replace all oil, and upgrade to new way wipers. Anywhere 2 surfaces slide, get in there and clean it up properly with window washing fluid, then oil it up.

You will be surprised how much smoother everything will function. Also, make sure to grease any areas that require it. You may need to disassemble before doing this as grease can harden over time and this decreases the lubrication properties significantly. There are a number of posts if you do a search on how to check headstock alignment and wear on the ways.

The good news is that your lathe has hardened ways so providing the previous owner did the minimum cleaning and oiling, I would expect the accuracy to be OK. I have a 48 year old Chipmaster that was used quite a bit but is still within.01 mm or better as it was regularly oiled. A visual inspection of the ways near the chuck should give you an indication of the wear. Couple more suggestions.

As far as raising the machine 8' boy that seems like a lot. I suppose its personal preference and how tall you are.

Im 5-11' and with just std leveling mounts it puts the carriage hand-wheel crank at perfect level. To me that means handle at BDC/6 oclock and my arm down with only slight bend in elbow. The PO of mine was 6-6' and in fact he used i beams just like you are contemplating. Heres the feet I used. As far as greasing anything - oh my just don't.

Once you do the heavy lifting cleaning up all the gunk and mis guided grease application, all you need is oil and oil and more (way) oil and rags. Mobil Vactra is a cheap, effective and available product. Wipe down and re oil after every use. Your post inspired me to remove the end cover and do some routine wiping and oiling. It might not look like it but believe it or not I actually USE my machine quite a bit but am very thorough cleaning it afterwards. Also if you need wipers for the v-ways I can possibly help.

See earlier posts in this thread. Lighting suggestions? Well I can't speak for others but to me the older I get there can never be enough!

How high is your ceiling where you will work?? I mounted a 4' florescent fixture directly above that goes on with the shop lights + a machine mounted incandescent task light. Still find myself with a sm flashlight peeking down bores! Hello everybody,sorry for being away so long.

I've been very busy in refurbishing home for my son's wedding occasion. Now the wedding is over it was last Sunday. Now I'm free again,I'm happy to say that very lately I purchased a Colchester Bantam 2000 mk 2. This week I started inspecting it and found out that an inverter cannot be fitted to the motor because it is a 415V.

2 speed.So now I'm looking for suggestions.I wish to keep it as close to original as possible as possible.One suggestion is to fit a s. Slow speed motor, I don't like it, because I'll be loosing half the speeds and may be the turning strength be weakened. If I go s.ph I prefer a 2 speed motor, or else a 3 ph high speed 3 hp motor with an inverter.Any suggestions or any help would be highly appreciated. Horace, I would try to stay as close to original as possible. 2 Hp is plenty of power on this machine. I found a great replacement motor from Automation Direct for about $200 and swapped mine out earlier this year. 2hp 240v 3P TEFC.

Cast iron frame. 145T frame size. Couple mods I needed to do were flip the shaft and conduit box orientation and trim the fan cover back a little. Ymmv depending on the vagaries of the sheet metal work and electrical layout on your specific machine. Looking back, if I would have known I needed to dis-assemble the new motor to make it work, I could have just opened the old motor and replaced the armature bearings as those were causing the noise prompting motor change in the first place!

Hello everybody,sorry for being away so long. I've been very busy in refurbishing home for my son's wedding occasion. Now the wedding is over it was last Sunday.

Now I'm free again,I'm happy to say that very lately I purchased a Colchester Bantam 2000 mk 2. This week I started inspecting it and found out that an inverter cannot be fitted to the motor because it is a 415V. 2 speed.So now I'm looking for suggestions.I wish to keep it as close to original as possible as possible.One suggestion is to fit a s. Slow speed motor, I don't like it, because I'll be loosing half the speeds and may be the turning strength be weakened. If I go s.ph I prefer a 2 speed motor, or else a 3 ph high speed 3 hp motor with an inverter.Any suggestions or any help would be highly appreciated. I've also just bought a Bantam 2000 Mk2., which has a 3kW two speed 415V three phase motor.

I though I might swap in a new, dual voltage, lower power motor but, after a bit of reading on the internet and a lot of talking to people, I decided to try just hooking it up to a 2.2kW (I think) VFB inverter. I wired it up to the low-speed windings on the motor and it seems to work a treat.

At the moment, my max. Speed is 990rpm. I tried hooking the inverter up to the high speed windings (let's call them terminals 4, 5 and 6), leaving terminals 1, 2 and 3 unconnected and, although it did run up to full speed, it was low on torque. However, when I turned the frequency down on the inverter, it had more torque although, obviously, at lower speed. My next thing is to try hooking the inverter up to terminals 4, 5 and 6 and connecting terminals 1, 2 and 3 together, to see if that works any better for the high speed.

I'm going to stay on the low speed windings for now, as I rarely need to go above 990rpm. Obviously, I won't be getting the full 3kW of power but I doubt I'll notice that.

I'm running the inverter off a 240V, single phase supply through a 13A plug with no problems so far. If necessary, I will swap in a proper dual voltage motor at a later date. There's quite a bit of stuff about this on the internet and, if you're in the UK, I can let you know who I bought the inverters off as he's a very helpful man: with his advice, I have managed to wire the original apron control lever and also the emergency footbrake into the inverter and they work a treat. I have also managed to wire my coolant pump into another inverter, again with his advice. Please get in touch if you want any more information: I've got a few crude wiring sketches that I did to get it all wired in, and some pictures. I have a question of my own about changing feed rates on this machine but I think I'd better post it somewhere else in this forum (I've never used a forum for anything before, so am a bit new to it all). Hello All, I hope somebody can help me with my question on a lovely lathe I've just got.

I've just acquired a Colchester Mk. 2 Bantam 2000 and have got it up and running and have even taken a quick facing test cut with it and it all seems OK. However, I am having some difficulty with trying to change the feed rate. It seems that, whatever combination of the screw cutting gearbox levers I engage, the speed of the feed shaft doesn't change and nor does that of the leadscrew (I've tried to explain this clearer in the attached). Both shafts turn and transmit power OK and the levers feel like they're engaging properly (I get that having-to-wiggle-the-spindle-to-fully-engage-the-levers feeling when I'm engaging them) so I don't think anything's broken. I feel like I'm missing some crucial step but don't know what. Can anybody offer any advice, please?

Thanks and have a nice Christmas all, Clem. I've also just bought a Bantam 2000 Mk2., which has a 3kW two speed 415V three phase motor. I though I might swap in a new, dual voltage, lower power motor but, after a bit of reading on the internet and a lot of talking to people, I decided to try just hooking it up to a 2.2kW (I think) VFB inverter.

I wired it up to the low-speed windings on the motor and it seems to work a treat. At the moment, my max. Speed is 990rpm. I tried hooking the inverter up to the high speed windings (let's call them terminals 4, 5 and 6), leaving terminals 1, 2 and 3 unconnected and, although it did run up to full speed, it was low on torque. However, when I turned the frequency down on the inverter, it had more torque although, obviously, at lower speed. My next thing is to try hooking the inverter up to terminals 4, 5 and 6 and connecting terminals 1, 2 and 3 together, to see if that works any better for the high speed.

I'm going to stay on the low speed windings for now, as I rarely need to go above 990rpm. Obviously, I won't be getting the full 3kW of power but I doubt I'll notice that.

I'm running the inverter off a 240V, single phase supply through a 13A plug with no problems so far. If necessary, I will swap in a proper dual voltage motor at a later date. There's quite a bit of stuff about this on the internet and, if you're in the UK, I can let you know who I bought the inverters off as he's a very helpful man: with his advice, I have managed to wire the original apron control lever and also the emergency footbrake into the inverter and they work a treat. I have also managed to wire my coolant pump into another inverter, again with his advice. Please get in touch if you want any more information: I've got a few crude wiring sketches that I did to get it all wired in, and some pictures. I have a question of my own about changing feed rates on this machine but I think I'd better post it somewhere else in this forum (I've never used a forum for anything before, so am a bit new to it all). I just joined up to this site after finding this thread which has more photos of the Clausing Colchester 11' than anywhere else on the web I think including Tony's Lathes UK site which actually uses a photo of my lathe for the 11'.

Anyway, there's some very nice lathes here and I appreciate the photos of the different accessories. I have pretty much everything for my lathe save the taper attachment which I suspect will be something I will search forever. The steadies I found in the UK along with the metric change gears. I have fitted a VFD and a DRO and I'll try to dig up some photos of them if anyone's interested. Here's a shot of my lathe with the Rockwell mill.

And there's a very extensive thread on the building of my garage shop here: Cheeseking if you're still making those wipers I'd love to get a set - feel free to PM me or reply here. Thanks for the info and photos. Hey Gregor welcome aboard! Love seeing other folks with the baby 11' Colchester. Looks like you do some great work in your shop. I'd be curious to see how you mounted the DRO scale on the cross slide.

I noodled quite awhile to figure out a mounting method for mine that did not block the compound lock screws. You probably discovered the Bantam is a bit unique from most other lathes in that the lock screws are buried in the cross slide rather than exposed up top. Mounting in the traditional fashion like DRO Pros shows would obscure the RH compound lock screw. It could be left loose but that didn't seem wise. I finally resorted to a custom SS top plate to mount the scale and a bunch of custom machined brackets for the read head to get it done. I have been happy with how it works so far but boy was it a project. Fortunately I have access to sheet metal fabrication equipment at work.

Oh and yes, I still have the mold for the V-wipers. One of these days I need to break out the urethane and make up a few sets to get out to fellow Bantam owners. I shipped 4-5 sets over the years and recently promised someone on here (I forget who now) a set but still have not done it. I wanted my DRO to be out of the way and not interfere with any future mods or functionality so I ended up exchanging the slide that came with the DRO for a 'slim' unit that I could hide in the notch of the saddle. This has worked out very well for the past 6 years and I can't imagine using a lathe without a DRO (or a mill for that matter). The scale is protected by a piece of aluminum angle and covers the full range of the cross slide. The DRO was put on a cut and rewelded arm that also holds the remote display/control for the VFD so that I can change the speed easily as I'm cutting.

The best advantage of the VFD is the ability to just put the machine into reverse while threading metric. Speaking of which. Since most of my work is on European motorcycles being able to thread metric was an essentially component. It took me about a year to find a 127 change gear but eventually I found that, the rest of the gears to make a complete set, a steady and a follow steady, a 5C collet changer and a number of other small parts.

I tried to find the metric threading plate for years and finally gave up and made one myself (with a note to not disengage the half-nut) and had it printed in a style that matched the original. I'd be happy to share the file if anyone else should want to get one printed. Lastly was a tool holder holder that I made for the AXA holders and for metric threading I made a flip up lay down insert holder that allows me to just reverse the lathe while threading metric without having to back off the crossfeed. Between that and the VFD allowing me to just reverse the lathe metric threading is about as easy as imperial. Hope that the photos help others with the same lathe.

Yep thats pretty much the same place I put the read head as well. For reversing I simply pull up on the lever and it reverses instantly although he phase converter definitely shrugs a bit. I take it you are running single phase? Regardless a VFD is nice for infinite speeds that you can change while the machine is running.

Badge I noticed the same thing. Hard to tell if its either totally empty or way overfilled. I believe it's supposed to be filled to the center dot. Mine might be a touch over filled.