1. Keihin Cvk 32

Keihin CVK32 Disassembly. Tools Needed: Long shank #3 Philips screwdriver, 8mm wrench, 3mm Allen wrench, Thin long shank flat blade screwdriver, toothpick or similar implement and optional items; silicone grease and Pin gage set. Find great deals on eBay for keihin cvk carburetor. Carburetor Keihin CVK 34, manual choke plunger. Jet Slow 5pcs 32# Fit Keihin CVK, PE,PZ,CB Carburetor Carb.

These guidelines should be followed when installing carburetors and other Keihin products:. To avoid injury, carburetors should be installed when the engine is cold. Read the owners manual for your vehicle before installing any Keihin product to prevent any damage to the vehicle due to improper installation.

Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Installations should be done in a well-ventilated area. Installation of products in this catalog should be done by an experienced mechanic or service technician. Keihin carburetors are only legal in California for racing vehicles, which may never be driven on public highways or waterways. Keihin carburetors are designed to be used with normal pump gasoline. Fuels that contain over 10% alcohol content may damage parts in the carburetors.

This may prevent the carburetor from functioning properly. (PDF). (PDF). (PDF). (PDF).

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Carburetor adjustment Basic information about the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil: super fuel 1:40. Basic information of changing the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor.

Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB: high altitude or high temperatures  choose leaner carburetor adjustment low altitude or low temperatures  choose richer carburetor adjustment. WARNING.ONLYUSE PREMIUM – GRADE GASOLINE ROZ 95 MIXED WITH HIGH – GRADE TWO – STROKE ENGINE OIL. OTHER TYPES OF GASOLINE CAN CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE, AND USE OF SAME WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.ONLYUSE HIGH – GRADE 2- STROKE ENGINE OIL OF KNOWN BRANDS ( I.

E.SHELL ADVANCE RACING X).NOTENOUGH OIL OR LOW – GRADE OILCAN CAUSE EROSION OF THE PISTON. USING TOO MUCH OIL, THE ENGINE CAN START SMOKING AND FOUL THE SPARKPLUG.INTHE CASE OFA LEANER ADJUSTMENT OF THE CARBURETOR PROCEED CAUTIOUSLY. ALWAYSREDUCETHEJETSIZEINSTEPSOFONENUMBERTOAVOID OVERHEATING AND PISTON SEIZURE.

NOTE: If despite a changed adjustment the engine does not run properly, look for mechanical faults and check the ignition system. Basic information on carburetor wear As a result of engine vibrations, throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause carburetor malfunction (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced after 1000 hours of using. Idling range – A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the idle adjusting screw 1. Only make adjustments when the engine is hot.

The idling speed can be changed by turning the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Opening up – B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking.

Part-throttle range – C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position).

The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch.

If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer Incoming search terms:. Intake Manifold: 1. Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold (Twin Cam only).

Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts. The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the furnished 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers.

Choke Cables: Mikuni & Harley-Davidson Route the cable with largest radius bends possible. Check the cable for free-play after installation.

If there is no free-play, the engine may run rich and deliver poor performance or low fuel mileage. Harley Cable (Twin Cam Kits: 42-19, 45-4): 1. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb. Remove the spring and plunger from the cable. Remove the spring and plunger from the Mikuni.

Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut (See Figure 1).

Total Kit Installation Instructions The HSR series carburetors are precise yet durable instruments; however, like any other piece of fine equipment, they require correct installation and reasonable care to assure optimum performance and long life. Extra time spent during installation will pay off in both short and long term performance and reliability. This Mikuni HSR carburetor kit is designed to be a bolt-on application, and as such, is set-up and jetted properly for most applications. However, since Harley-Davidson motors are often highly modified, alternate tuning settings may be required. The Mikuni Tuning Manual helps make jetting alterations and adjustments an easy matter. NOTE: Carburetor Kits not designated as C.A.R.B. Exempt, are not legal for motor vehicles operated on public highways in the state of California, or in any other states and countries where similar laws apply.

WARNING NOTE: NOTE: WARNING CAUTION NOTE: NOTE: TK-2 6. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. Loosen the knurled plastic friction nut behind the choke knob and check for free-play (see Figure 2).

Figure 1: Harley nut with Mikuni spring & plunger Figure 2: Choke cable adjustments Mikuni Cable (Evo Kits: 42-8, 45-2 & 45-3): 1. Remove nut, spring and plunger from the Mikuni.

Install the nut, spring and plunger onto the cable. Install the assembly into the Mikuni HSR carburetor. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut. Check for free-play. Adjust the cable as necessary.

An optional choke cable mounting bracket is included in the Evo kits for custom installations. Carburetor Installation: 1. Insert the carb fully into the rubber flange, align with engine and tighten the clamp.

Slip the fuel hose onto the carburetor’s fuel fitting and secure with the enclosed hose clamp. NOTE: Some Twin Cam installations may require removal of a small amount of fin material from the cylinders to clear the float bowl. Throttle Cables The HSR carburetor uses stock 1990 and later Harley- Davidson cables. However, if your Harley is fitted with some other carburetor, you may need to purchase a set of cables. See your dealer for the correct cable set. Route the throttle cables with large radius curves and so they do not interfere with other components. Screw the cable adjusters together to make them as short as possible.

Connect the “close” cable first (see Figure 3). Install the “open” cable next (see Figure 3). Adjust the opening cable until the slide can be opened fully. Snug the adjuster lock nut.

Turn the handlebar to the right and adjust the throttle free-play with the closing cable adjuster to approximately 1/8″ (see Figure 4) Incoming search terms:. BEFORE INSTALLATION OF YOUR NEW ZENITH CARBURETOR, NSPECT THE RUBBER MANIFOLD SEAL FOR NICKS,CRACKS, OR DEBRIS. APPLYING A LIGHT FILM OF PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANT AROUND THE INSIDE LIP OF THE RUBBER SEAL WILL ALLOW THE CARBURETOR TO SLIP INTO PLACE EASIER. BEFORE ACTUAL INSTALLATION OF UNIT INTO MANIFOLD, THROTTLE CABLES SHOULD BE HOOKED TO THETHROTTLEWHEEL.MAKESURETHATTHE PULL CABLE IS LOCATEDPROPERLY TO OPEN THE THROTTLE PLATE (IN SOME APPLICATIONS THROTTLE CABLE SLACK MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED FOR PROPER HOOKUP AND OPERATION) SEE FIG. AFTER THROTTLE CABLES ARE PROPERLY HOOKED UP,UNITCAN BE INSERTED INTO MANIFOLD. MAKE SURE THAT UNIT IS FULLY SEATED.

WITH CARBURETOR SEATED INTO MANIFOLD AND FUEL LINE HOOKED UP TO FUEL INLET, INSTALL CHOKE CABLE AND HOOK TO CHOKE LEVER. PLACE AIR INTAKE GASKET ON END OF CARBURETOR, NEXT PLACE INTAKE ADAPTOR OVER INTAKE GASKET. SEE FIG#2 ZENITH MOD.16P12 SPIGET MOUNT CARBURETOR -HARLEY DAVIDSON ™ BIG TWIN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FIG. WITH ADAPTOR IN PLACE, LOCATE THE STOCK AIR BOX OVER THE ADAPTOR, UTILIZING THE STOCK AIR BOX GASKET (THERESHOULDBENO GAPS BETWEEN ADAPTOR, AIRBOX OR CARBURETOR WHEN PROPERLY INSTALLED) STAND-OFF SPACERS PROVIDED ARE TOBEPLACEDBETWEENAIR BOX& ENGINE HEADS BEFORE INSTALLING THE VENT/RETAINING BOLTS.

FOR EVALUATION ENGINES STOCK VENT BOLTS CAN BE USED WITH LARGERI.D. SPACER PROVIDED. WITH AIR BOXSECURELY IN PLACE, INSTALL THE AIR FILTER COVER RETAINING BRACKET AND FILTER USING THE STOCKBOLTS, AND REPLACE AIR FILTER COVER AND SECURE WITH STOCK BOLT. AFTER INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE AND FUEL FLOW HAS BEEN RE-ESTABLISHED, CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS BEFORE STARTING ENGINE. AFTER STARTING ENGINE, SOME ADJUSTMENTS OF IDLE AND MAIN JET MAYBE REQUIRED FOR PROPER OPERATION. AFTER ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE AND WITH ENGINEAT IDLE, TURN WHEEL FULLYTOLEFTANDRIGHT.ANYCHANGEIN IDLE SPEED INDICATES THROTTLE CABLES ARE TOO TIGHT AND MORE SLACK MUST BE PROVIDED.

Incoming search terms:. Disconnect the battery ground wire from the battery.

Turn the fuel petcock to the “OFF” position. Elevate the rear of the fuel tank for better access to the carburetor area. Remove the coil, horn or other devices on the left hand side of the engine to allow free access to the intake manifold bolts. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly, including the backing plate. Disconnect any vacuum hoses and the fuel hose from the stock carburetor. Disconnect the choke cable from the frame.

Remove the stock carburetor. Evo: remove the stock manifold. Twin Cam: unplug MAP sensor, remove manifold and then remove the MAP sensor from the manifold. Installation: Intake Manifold: Twin Cam only: Install MAP sensor in Mikuni manifold. Attach the Mikuni manifold to the engine. Align the manifold before tightening the bolts.

The flange surface of the Mikuni manifold should be parallel with the front of the engine’s cam cover. Use a level or angle meter to check this. Tighten the manifold bolts. Attach the rubber flange to the Mikuni manifold with the 5/16″x3/4″ bolts and washers. To ease installation, use liqiud detergent to lubricate the manifold seals. Choke: Evo: We recommend that you use the Mikuni choke cable that is furnished with the carburetor.

However, you can use the stock Harley cable (’90-’99 models only) if you follow the Twin Cam choke cable instructions. Remove the Harley choke cable from the stock carb.

Remove the Harley spring and plunger from the Harley choke cable. Remove the Mikuni spring and plunger from the Mikuni carburetor. Install the Mikuni spring and plunger onto the Harley choke cable. Change nothing else; be sure to use the Harley plastic nut, not the Mikuni nut. Install the new assembly into the Mikuni. Be careful to only gently tighten the plastic nut.

Your Mikuni HSR is fitted with the tuning parts we found to work with the great majority of engine performance modifications. However, the large number of differing exhaust systems and cams available makes it impossible to accommodate all possible combinations with one carburetor set-up. Your HSR will almost certainly run correctly on your engine without exchanging any parts. But, if it doesn’t, you may alter its tuning to suit your engine’s needs by following this guide. Some exhaust system designs strongly interfere with carburetor tuning. For instance, it is very difficult to get smooth and responsive carburetion through the entire rpm range with straight pipes and completely open exhausts. In addition, very small volume, small diameter mufflers are often ‘seen’ by the engine as straight pipes and present the same tuning difficulties.

Very long duration cams often cause relatively poor running below about 3,000 rpm, depending upon the individual cam’s intake valve closing point. Such cams cause reverse airflow out the mouth of the carburetor (often called “reversion” or “standoff”) that can be mistaken for a carburetor tuning problem. Harley-Davidson Screamin’ Eagle performance parts are proven and predictable. If you have any doubts about a particular exhaust system, air cleaner or ignition, you may substitute the Harley Screamin’ Eagle parts as a “reality check.” When re-tuning is required, it usually involves small alterations to the idle and/or main system. The following pages supply enough information to make such alterations relatively simple. Please note that there is no point in attempting to tune any carburetor unless the engine is sound and in a good state of tune. If you have any doubts about the general condition of your engine, have it checked by your dealer or an experienced mechanic before attempting to fine-tune your Mikuni.

Incoming search terms:. Remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. Remove stock air box.

Remove choke cable from handlebars. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later.

Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step.

NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold Incoming search terms:. THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT A) Rotate the throttle grip to the full open position, look into the throttle bore and see if the throttle valve (slide) opens completely. If the throttle valve does not open completely unscrew the adjuster on the opening cable until it does.

This adjustment should be made carefully to assure maximum carburetor performance. After adjustment tighten the adjuster jam nut.

B) After adjusting the open cable, adjust throttle freeplay with the closing (idle) cable to approximately 1/8″ an indicated in the following illustration. Note It is very important to adjust the cables in the preceding described manner to ensure that the idle cable operates correctly for safety.

It must close the throttle completely 2 PLEASE NOTE USE CAUTION PLEASE NOTE SAFETY WARNING pull open cable pull close cable SHOVELHEAD/IRONHEAD XL Installation Instructions Check and make sure that the throttle cables are routed properly by rechecking the throttle play as the handlebars are turned from side-to-side; the amount play should remain consistent. C) After the throttle cables have been adjusted, make sure that all the lock nuts are securely tightened. AIR CLEANER A) The air filter bracket is attached to the crankcase with 1 long bolt, and a bracket-spacer. Removed the crankcase nut located between the tappet blocks & replace it with the enclosed bracket spacer; tighten the spacer securely.

B) Remove the stud protectors from the K&N filter and place the two backing plates on the studs. Now slip the the filter onto the carburetor. C) Attach the 2 long brackets to the air filter studs with the enclosed nuts & flat washers, and to the bracket spacer with the enclosed bolt using the lock washers, and flat washers. When the carburetor and air cleaner are properly aligned, securely tighten all of the mounting hardware including the intake manifold clamps.

Keihin Cvk 32

In some cases it may be necessary to bend the brackets slightly to arrive at the correct fit. D) Use the enclosed hose clamps to secure the fuel hose to the petcock, and the HSR carburetor. The screw clamp goes on the petcock end and the spring clamp attaches to the carburetor end. E) Attach the chrome air filter cover with the enclosed socket head screw. CHOKE CABLE INSTALLATION A) Attach the Mikuni choke cable bracket to the original choke cable bracket on the air cleaner stud with the enclose hardware as illustrated. K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use.

The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market.

Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug.

(mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages Incoming search terms:. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2.

Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle.

It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b.

Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely.

Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1.

Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3.

With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly.

Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly.

If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps.

You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4.

Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor. Incoming search terms:.

When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw.

On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping.

This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store. Incoming search terms:.