Vermeer 504h Baler Manual
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There were not that many of the 504 Super F balers made. Most were 504F balers.The Super F were the last models of the F series. Likely that Super F has an electric twine tie.
• October 25, 2010, at the. Beechcraft king air 350 maintenance manual. Retrieved: November 17, 2012.
A 504 Super F is close to being a 504H. The JD 410 baler is a closed throat baler and the difference would be night and day between these 2 balers. The Vermeer 504 Super F will make bale so tight that you will have trouble spearing them. If you short on HP in your tractor you can also change the main drive sprocket and reduce the HP requirements 10 HP. This can be done for less than $50. Value for a 504 Super F would be $2,000-4,000 if in average to above average condition.
I had one of those with Massey Fergueson paint on it. First, it won't make your D17 breathe hard. They are very east to pull. They are well made.
If the pickup has all the teeth and the proper adjustments are made it will start bales reliably in any kind of hay. Unless it has electric twine wrapping, it requires 2 hyd. Outlets, one to dump the bale, the other to work the twine arm. The twine arm mechanism is a little fragile, but works fine with reasonable care. Mine did not want to cut the twine reliably until I made a longer twine knife out of an old sickle blade.
This involved grinding it to shape and drilling new holes in the blade. Belts need to be trimmed to the uniform factory length, but that is true of any belt baler. It does not make bales as tight as newer Vermeer or JD balers. IMO good tight bales start with the Vermeer 504I or better 504 Super I. Good JD balers start with the 430 IMO. I suspect the 504F makes better bales than the JD410, but I don't know. I do know from personal experience that it makes better bales than a NH 847.
Hope this helps. KEH Hop to.
Gac, F,G & H balers used the same frame. H was most advanced, and is a good baler. I don't think it will make a full 5 foot bale. My MF 1450 which is, I think, a vermeer F, would not make a 5 ft. Look first to see if many pick up teeth are missing. It needs a full set of teeth to start bales well.
Check condition of belts and tightness of the belts. I had to have mine trimmed for proper length. If too long, may not turn (I used spray belt dressing at first). At the front of the belts there is a roller with canvas flaps on it which turns opposite to the direction of the belts and keeps hay from climbing the belts on the outside and clogging the baler(hopefully). It has 4 flaps on it and I think for best results all 4 should be present and in good shape. Vermeers use up bearings fairly fast, so try to check condition of bearings. If all else checks out, have the baler hitched to a tractor a run it while listening for bad bearings.
I didn't do this on last baler and regretted it. On the pieces on the side that support the hinge mechanism, check for cracks caused by some one trying to close the bale chamber on a bale of hay that has just been ejected.
The twine tube is subject to wear and breakage, so check the whole assembly for cracks and welds. I would prefer electric tie because otherwise you need two hydraulic outlets.
There are pick up tension springs on each side of the pick up which need to be adjusted right to get the bale started. Starting the bale is the downfall of a lot of balers, but the H will do it if adjusted to specs. Check for excessive wear in drive chain. The I balers are a big step up over the H and will be priced accordingly.
When I got a 505 I, I could bale a gear faster than the older model. Same comments about pick up teeth and listening to it run and checking condition of belts and chain. The other adjustments don't apply to the I. Check the gear box for leaks on both balers. Hope this helps. A 504F and H are similar in that they have spring and hydraulic belt tension.
The H has a stronger pickup and both balers will make a full 5' bale. Never shorten the belts on a Vermeer baler more that 4' below factor specs. If you belts are not turning when the baler is empty then clean the chaff out of the springs. This will re-adjust the baler belts back to the proper start tension. If the belts are too tight you will have trouble starting a bale. Your pickup teeth need to miss the rubber flaps 1/8'.
Vermeer 504h Baler
If you see the cords in the rubber flappers replace them. The H balers also have an adjustable pickup cam. As teeth wear this can be moved to counter act worn teeth. Gac, I've seen the loader hydraulics used as you describe.
Cut off valves were plumbed into the loader lines so the loader would stay up and the loader hydraulics could be reconnected without releasing the pressure someway. If the loader is off then this is not a problem. When I used the hydrailic tie baler I had a diverter valve to shift the pressure from the tieing to the dump cylinders.
Cost $75 then. When I got an electric tie baler I took the diverter valve plumbing off. Probably a little simpler to rig the loader hydraulics. Requires two cut off valves, some short pipe, and two hydraulic connectors.
If your tractor has a front hydraulic loader pump it probably has more pressure and volume than the tractor hydraulics. I prefer electric tie. Keep the bale turning all the time the twine tube is moving across the bale. If you move the twine arm with the bale stopped, You will jam the twine arm. Get operators manual from dealer.
Let me know if I can help further.