• Mini Cooper Repair Manual Pdf

Browse available MINI Cooper Oil Filter Housing and housing parts for all models This article applies to the Gen 1 2002-2006 R50 MINI Cooper and R53 Cooper S Hatchback. A Little Background.

The early MINI with production dates up to 07/2004 has a couple extra pieces inside the oil filter canister cover - a spring and plastic cage. These items were eliminated on the later models after 07/2004. The oil filter specification with the initial production of the MINI required a 'paper filter' which necessitated a plastic cage in the canister cover to prevent the filter from collapsing under pressure. For this reason, the early production MINIs have a spring loaded plastic 'cage' built into the oil filter canister cover. This 'cage' provides a rigid structure within the filter to maintain its shape under pressure. The cage also helps to 'seal' the top of the filter for proper oil circulation thru the filter. The early 'all paper' oil filters designed for use with the caged cover did not have any internal support structure (or 'built-in' cage).

BE CAREFUL when purchasing aftermarket oil filters as there are still some of these 'uncaged' filters in the market. Beginning with the 07/2004 production, they changed the filter specification and a plastic 'cage' was built into the filter itself, eliminating the need for the cage in the canister cover. The potential problem. A potential problem arises with your 2002-2004 MINI during a filter change when the plastic cage 'detaches' from the canister cover and gets pulled out with the oil filter, allowing the spring to pop free.

Oct 4, 2017 - Browse available MINI Cooper Oil Filter Housing and housing parts. MINI likes Castrol Synthetic, many MINI owners use Mobile 1 Synthetic.

If the technician is not familiar with the early filter setup - the plastic cage gets thrown out with the dirty oil filter. Without the spring and cage in the early canister, the filter fails to seal against the cover resulting in 'low oil pressure' warning light. Since the canister cover is built differently for the 'cage version' vs. The later version, the filter will not seal properly without the cage, allowing unfiltered oil to circulate around the filter.

Circulating unfiltered oil is NOT good for your engine. Not to mention the low oil pressure. Another problem arises if you should happen to purchase an early 'un-caged' oil filter.

If you use this filter with the later 'uncaged' canister cover, the filter will collapse affecting filtration and oil pressure. The solution. If you find a loose spring with the oil filter without the plastic cage, MINI recommends replacing the entire Oil Filter Housing module. Make sure the new oil filter has the plastic cage 'built-in'. You will be safe with the factory filter or the MANN filter ( ). Note: We've had occasional reports of the oil light staying on at idle and going off as soon as the rev's are up. We have seen a couple issues that have caused this: 1.

The plastic Cage and/or Spring is missing. One of the valves inside the filter base is damaged (missing pieces). Aftermarket oil filter with inadequate 'stiffness' on the ends of the filter causing oil to bypass the filter (Wix filter caused this problem for one customer). The factory oil filter has a rigid black plastic base on the bottom to press against the valves at the base of the oil filter housing. Helpful Hints for changing the oil. Frequently, the canister cover will be very difficult to break free.

Use a breaker bar with CAUTION! You may need a due to the limited space available. If you loosen the filter canister cover enough to break the seal, it will help drain the oil from the filter as you drain the oil pan. Less mess later! When replacing the O-ring (which is included with the new factory filter), save the old one just in case (will explain later).

When replacing the O-ring on the canister cover, make sure you lubricate the O-ring with PLENTY of fresh oil before you install it, and lubricate again after it is in place on the canister cover. If you fail to do this, the O-ring will bunch up and cause a leak, not to mention a BIG mess! The new oil filter should be 'pre-seated' into the base and cover before installation.

Take the filter (black plastic ring side down) and press firmly into the base until it is fully seated. Remove and do the same into the canister cover. This reduces the resistance from initial seating. You can leave the filter seated into the cover and screw the cover back onto the base, or you can leave the filter in the base fully seated and screw the cover back onto the base. Getting the Canister Cover started into the base is a little tricky - having the O-ring well lubricated will make it a little easier.

Start the cover onto the base carefully, confirming the cover is 'square' with the base to prevent cross-threading. Once you have it started, you will still have slight resistance from the new O-ring, but you should be able to get the cover well onto the base by hand. Torque the canister cover to 18 lb-ft. The factory Drain Plug gasket is a plastic gasket that is molded into the Drain Plug. Best to replace the drain plug at every oil change. The cost is minimal compared to headaches from a leaky plug! (The linked filter part numbers above includes a new drain plug.) Torque the Drain Plug to 18 lb-ft as well.

You can also use a that will help trap microscopic metal debris and can be re-used. Fill with a name brand FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil.

It should take a little over 4 quarts (4.7 quarts dry). MINI recommends oils in SAE classes 5W-40 and 5W-30. MINI likes Castrol Synthetic, many MINI owners use Mobile 1 Synthetic. After you confirm everything is buttoned up, and you have fresh oil in the engine, start the engine. The red Engine Oil Pressure warning light should go off in a couple seconds. After a running the engine for 15 seconds or so, shut off the engine and let sit for a few minutes. Check for leaks, and re-check the oil level.

If everything is dry and the dip stock shows 'full' - go for a drive! If you run the car and find a puddle of oil under the engine, there is a good chance the O-ring was damaged when you installed the canister cover. Take the old O-ring that you saved, and re-install - with care!

To reset the oil service reminder,. ADDENDUM We have also had reports of 'oil pressure warning light' at idle and customers finding a 'small spring' loose at the bottom of the base. Here is a photo of what the Filter Canister Base should look like: If either of these valves are damaged, you will need to replace the entire housing. I just bought my first Mini - an 2003 Cooper. Soon after purchase I started to get the oil light coming on when idling, first just flicking on and off again.

Then before long it stayed on, at first it would go out after tapping the gas but before long it just came back when idling. I took it to the garage and even printed tehm a copy of this article. They confirmed everything is in place, but there was a small amount of metallic sludge on the end of the oil filter. No visible particles and nothing but oil on the filter itself. Have you ever heard of this? I do know the car was garaged from about 2010 to 2014 so could it be circulating uncleared sludge?

Anyway, they did an oil change and suggested that if the problem resurfaces I should take it to BMW. I plan to check the filter in a week or two regardless. 2002 Cooper S w/ 161K miles. Recently changed oil/ filter and experienced oil pressure light staying on. Changed sender and no dice so dug further and located threads about drainback valve. Sure enough found it, broken, inside filter housing.

I searched my 'junk' drawer and found a brass part which fit the opening closely, placed large diameter spring from broken valve over the new part and pre-seated filter over the spring. Viola - oil pressure light goes off normally now. Downside I'll have to pull the right front wheel to place a funnel to catch all the oil trapped in the canister when I change the oilbut I can live with that. I can't believe this part is not offered by itself. Must be similar plastic to what they use on the flexible dipstick 'cause mine got brittle and started to come apart a couple years ago. Had no problem finding the dipstick but no such luck with the valve. Anyway breathing easier not having to shell out $275 for the entire housing.

I had a shop change my oil, the next time I did it myself and found the cage missing. I bought the new cover and found it didn't seat properly on the base.

I had to have a machine shop match the old housing profile and add a spacer to make it seat properly and the oil light go out. Wake up BMW/mini! If you're going to obsolete a part, the replacement should fit! I am extremely disappointed in this poorly engineered replacement. If I thought it would do any good I'd complain to the mini quality dept, bad business! Be careful before putting new version cap on earlier version bottom (compare threads side by side).

I followed the advice on this article about it being ok and made a bigger mess of it. The threads didn't match so I ended cross threading and never got the new cap to completely close against the base lid. When I unscrewed the cap to see what was going on I saw tiny metal particles from the destroyed thread inside the base. I couldn't sleep that night thinking of the little pieces of aluminum inside the oil going to my car's engine. So I took my car into the shop for an oil change. Its an 2003 cooper S, so it has to go to a more expensive place.

Anyway, they did change the oil but couldn't get the oil fiter off. Apparetly the last place (just before I bought it in May) put it on too tight and to try any harder could break something. So we have to make a special trip to Vancouver (4hr drive) to the place who did it and tell them to get it off and/or replace anything that gets broken. It will have to wait until May because Matt has tax season coming up and from now until the end of April we won't be able to drive to Vancouver in my car. We are going down there, but have to take his car becasue he has winter tires. I could go by myself, but Matt needs to argue with the guy at the oil place.its best for him to come with me.

He doesn't mind. I just got it in May and my oil change didn't go over the KM that it said to change it. I hope they honor their work! I have a 2002 cooper S and when I changed the oil filter and started the car I found that the oil pressure warning lite was staying on. I checked the oil level and it was full. I removed the oil filter and found the oil drain back valve and spring laying in the bottom of the filter housing.One of the spring plastic tips that hold it in was broken off. I tried to buy one and found that this part was only available by purchasing the complete oil filter housing $269.00.

I did and installed it and oil lite went out AND BMW made alot of money for a fifteen cent part. This was a well written explanation of just what to expect changing the oil and filter. Mine had the newer canister and I bought my oil and filter from Mini. A 36mm hex head is cast into the canister. Having a wrench that size, not deep, helps with removal. The 'O' ring does feel like it is dragging and may roll off. I started mine and then took it off because of this concern.

It was still in the groove but I oiled it up real well and replaced it. The only discrepancy was the capacity-the owner's manual lists about 4.7 quarts and that is indeed what mine held. The follow up article on the reset of the oil set reminder worked perfectly, as well.

MiniMania: Thank you for pointing out the capacity discrepancy. I've corrected the article.

Mini Cooper Repair Manual Pdf

One of the easiest tasks to perform on your mini is to change the transmission or differential fluid but just in case you need a bit of guidance be sure to read this article first. View and download mini cooper owners manual online cooper automobile pdf manual download also for cooper convertible.

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Once the cover is off remove the old fuel tank seal purple arrow and throw it away youll get a new one with the fuel filter kit also remove the small o rings from inside the top cover green arrow and also inside the bottom of the filter housing.