Pexto 544 Manual
To view and print Publication Reprints, you will need the Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer. This model serves as a combination machine with capabilities of burring, wiring, edging, flanging, and turning. The earlier 544 design, also a combination machine, was open-frame construction and this enclosed version was introduced in the late 1940s.
Hello It’s been awhile since i last posted here so Hello again. I recently was offered an opportunity to begin working as a sub contractor which after 4 1/2 years of nothing for work is exciting to say the least. So here’s my problem and I hope someone can help.

The part I need to fabricate is made from 3' diameter welded tubing with a 0.065 wall and I need to form a 1/4' flat flange at one end. I have been able to achieve this by using a ball peen hammer, flaring it out, and then mushrooming it in my 12 ton bearing press. Lastly flattening the edge with a body hammer on top of a 1/2' steel plate.
The process takes 5 minutes per piece and I need to make 200 for this first run and if the product sells well the next batch will be 1000 pieces. Also there will be other items to produce so as the old saying goes 'Time is Money.' Simply I need to know if there is any way to do this faster mechanically in my home shop.
I tried to use the plenishing Hammer no luck there The Harbor Freight bead former flexes with the thick gauge steel. The former is hand cranked but I did find a guy on You-tube who beefed one up and added a chain drive with a speed controlled peddle.
I could follow there but I also don't have rollers that flare an edge. Just the guild fence with -u- and shearing rollers.
They don't carry anything else that I didn't buy with it. I would think if I could just flare the end to a 45 quickly I could still press it and hit it with the body hammer to finish. Still the press is hand pump not power so again slow. I made 12 of these things in an hour so I know I can do it but there has to be a faster way. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Here's the simple Drawing for anyone who wasn't sure what I was describing. Our Digital camera just died on Halloween and my wife is upset cause she didn't get many pics of the kids in there costumes.
Free Flyer I think I follow the idea but could you post a pic or sketch so we are on the same page. I do have a SB 9' lathe and if I follow what you're saying I would just need to turn two plates (die forms) on it. Is that correct? If it is the case I would just have to add an electrically pumped ram to the press and all would be happy. Surplusjohn local HVAC would cost to much to have them do it for me and of the two I know of they don't like taking in small non HVAC jobs. I used to work for one of them. Metal cutter the tube is mild steel and easily yields to the hammer and press without heating.
JRIowa HOLY Shnoikys Would that I could afford that thing. Its perfect for the task but its got to be a huge chunk of change to buy.
The other issue is that it is a Space Hogg and my small garage is chuck full of goodies as it is. Thanks though. You should just buy a rotary machine, like a Roper Whitney 622- Roper Whitney - Quality Sheet Metal Fabrication Equipment (Tennsmith still makes one too- TENNSMITH: MANUAL ROTARY MACHINE (But they are usually available used, especially where you live there should be tons of em. I paid around a hundred bucks for mine, used. Here's a pexto on ebay right now for two hundred- Pexto 544 Hand Crimper Bead Roller Rotary Sheet Metal Forming Fabricator Machine eBay (get flanging dies, and you are not restricted to one size of pipe, like you would be if you made dedicated dies for some lathe/hydraulic press frankenstein machine. They clamp on your workbench, unclamp and put on a shelf when not in use. Its true, 16 gage is pushing it for a handcrank machine, but it should be possible.
You might need to do em warm- not red hot, but heated. Power would be better, sure. But power rotary machines are more money, and bigger. Why reinvent the wheel? JRIowa HOLY Shnoikys Would that I could afford that thing.
Its perfect for the task but its got to be a huge chunk of change to buy. The other issue is that it is a Space Hogg and my small garage is chuck full of goodies as it is.
John John, Use that as a concept. You could build a flanging machine like that for the same size tubing in a couple of days. Use a low speed gearmoter to drive the tubing and have a manual roller that you pull over the end of the tubing. You don't need precision spindle bearings, pillow blocks would be enough. Space wise, probably 30' square. Do you have a lathe with a 3' hole in the chuck?
A set of pie jaws and a roller that would attach to the cross slide would do the same thing. A Pexto 544 only has a capacity for 22ga but it is in the ballpark of what I need for pricing right now.
The mod-ed versions of the Harbor freight bead former I have seen are strong enough for 16ga but I’d need to get a Die set that will fit. Also with the 16ga I might need to make the flange in two steps. The first roll a 45 then roll out to 90. The press forming seems the simplest set up and I know that once I got the metal flared out around a 45 it did press easily. It did over roll a bit that’s why I had to finish it square with the body hammer. The Tennsmith PR-16 would be perfect but you can just tell the price is a smack in the face. TENNSMITH: POWERED ROTARY MACHINE (Unfortunately moneys tight here.
If I can get the ball rolling and produce the small batch order the large order could get me the better tooling. As Far as used Equipment around here the shops that are selling or are being auctioned seem to be only trying to sell off there stuff at top dollar. Almost the price for a new piece of equipment. Ebay and Craigs-list are also where most of the stuff is going.
For example- I mean new the thing is only like 900 and it comes with more rollers- KZN-TEyys I'm not giving up yet. If Metal spinning Keatting metal spinning hand tools - YouTube (was combined with an internal (wood?) mandrel to hold the work in a lathe.
The mandrel could have a shoulder on it to keep the pipe from moving along it (on the lathe chuck end of the mandrel). The tail stock center could support the other end of the mandrel. The flange would be made on the tail stock end of the mandrel.
Clamp the tube away from the flanged edge or use an expanding mandrel. I would just press it, 2 or three guided mandrels say 30 degree, 60 degree and then flat and one external die would see it done, just 2 opps is IMHO possible but risky depending on the tubes quality more than you need to. Mind you i hate hammering.
Might pay just to grind out the weld seam on the tube id prior to forming though. Use some nice oil or possibly grease will make it all happen a lot easier.
Equally the comments about starting with nicely de burred tubes are spot on. The die probaly does not need to be hardened, but mandrels probaly should be for a 1K run, but for 10 or so you would get away with it with good lube and just mild steel on mild steel.
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Pex To 544
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